Tuesday, March 22, 2011

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Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Capitol Reef National Park

Mike B on a zig zagging 5.11 crack. This one is found in the Grand Wash and is about a 2 minute approach. Classic.

Steph Davis on a nice 12+ splitter. This crack is also in the Grand Wash and is as good as they get for this size. Steph crushed the route easily after her knee surgery months ago.

The Capitol Reef visitor center. Be sure to stop in and get some fresh pies!
Mike B making breakfast on a cool morning in the park. For 10 bucks a night it's quiet and you are right in the middle of everything in the park. Clean bathrooms and friendly folks and hundreds of fruit trees.
Mike B on his overhanging 35meter hand crack. It's awesome! Some easy face/crack climbing at the beginning leads to a beautiful 20 foot overhung handcrack out the dihedral. It is just a minute from the road (Grand Wash).
I am really glad that you have visited my blog.

Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:http://www.scarpa.nethttp://www.arcteryx.comhttp://camp-usa.comhttp://sterlingrope.comhttp://ColoradoMountainJournal.comhttp://www.wunderground.comhttp://climbing.comhttp://rockandice.comhttp://deadpointmag.comhttp://urbanclimbermag.comhttp://andrewburr.comhttp://ladzinski.com

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 2 (Odyssey)

Thanks for joining us again on our next installment. When we last left you, we were enjoying our rest day. Although - don't you find that the first enforced rest day is the hardest one to take? You've only done two days of climbing and you know you should rest, but...ohhh, you're so excited and just want to do one more day...

Anyway, we played it smart and it was lucky, because coach Cujes (me) had some brutality in store at one of the premiere cliffs on the island, the varied Odyssey.

It started cold and we were snug in our down jackets, and then fingertips were frozen on the limestone of the warmups. Circe 6b, Femio 6a+ and Laertes 5c+ were all dispatched by the crew.

"What was that one like Glenn?" 
"Dunno - couldn't feel a thing!"

Next it was time for a crag tour to find the line which inspired. With about 50-60 classics of all grades to choose from, it wasn't hard. For Matt, the steep and thuggy Lucky Luca 7b beckoned. For Owen, it was the gently overhung, polished and pumpy Amorpha 7b. Glenn and Susy were seduced by the long and technical Dafni 7b. And me, well, I had an old project from the 2008 camp Marci Marc 7c+ - that super enduro mega line. One of the most coveted routes on Kalymnos.

Owen only had a couple of hangs on his first shot on Amorpha 7b (remember, this is the guy who is supposed to be climbing 6a/18 because of his wrist). Solid, solid effort up front. We spent a good while sussing the top crux and getting the sequence just right. On his second shot, he went right through cleanly to the rest 4m from the top, and even though he rested well, the forearms were out of juice for the deadpoint to the two finger pocket - one move shy of the top. Tragedy! Seriously though, don't you love a route that takes you right to the edge? What a perfect proj - he'll be back for it later in the camp.



Owen and his Amporpha 7b © S Cujes 2010

While Lucky Luca 7b may have "looked onsightable", it wasn't to be for Matt who discovered the start is mega bouldery on steep tufa snake pinches. Not surprising, he found some sweet kneebars and kneescums and came away with a smooth second shot send. Tidy work from the Coolum Kid.



Matt putting Lucky Luca 7b to bed © L Cujes 2010

Dafni 7b is a long and imposing, wandering line up a pure white sheet of limestone. Given Glenn's hardest route is 7a/23, the fact he got on this with no beta, placing the draws and working it out as he went was a bloody top effort. Susy then helped refine beta and they both had shots on it together. This is an ace way of figuring out a hard route, particularly if you both have different styles, as sometimes one person is better at unlocking the sequence and the other person benefits from that. Super fun. No sends, but good learnings and great progress. A potential goer for later in the trip.



Glenn on Dafni 7b  © L Cujes 2010

So that leaves me on Marci Marc 7c+. The route is a full 30m long and overhangs about 10m or so. In 2008, I tried it several times, always avoiding the potential kneebar at half height. You have to climb out to it, put it in, and then climb back onto the line and I always thought it probably didn't allow much of a rest anyway. It certainly didn't feel good when I tried it. But here we are in 2010 and I'm in possession of our newly developed Upskill Friction kneebar pads, I thought it'd be wrong not to suit up and get into them. So I tried the kneebar and yep - pretty dang good with these pads! Second shot I climbed solidly from the ground, through to the kneebar, recovered, and then blitzed the crux. What a relief! 10m victory whipper from the top (thanks Susy's rope and Matt's soft catch) and I'm down.



Me chilling in the kneebar on Marci Marc 7c+ © S Cujes 2010

After the big efforts on our projects, we hit the slabs for some no pressure fun. Sheree once again upped her tally of leading on routes such as Eumeo 4b, Argo 4c and Telemaco 5b, and we all played around on these fun slabs with cool features (big stones sticking out of the more weathered limestone).



Slab fun!! © L Cujes 2010

Join us next time as we steepen things up at the dripping tufa wall of Ghost Kitchen!

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Great Places to Go Climbing Group

Climbing has much to offer. achieve a sense of fulfillment and joy at the top are difficult to beat. Today, many social groups in the 'packages' are looking for pure joy of rock climbing and team building experiences. Climbing can help build teamwork and friendships.
There are a number of sites in the UK for internal and external groups in the form of climbing. You can view the days activities, normally should be fully recognized trainers offer beginners the chance to learn to navigate safely through a rock. These days are good for your corporate team building, although the costs 50-120 pounds a person can. Here are some sites that you want to attract in your group could get said.
Indoor climbing If you are just a little bit of climbing with a limited effort will be indoor climbing is a good opportunity to pick up. Lakeland is an indoor climbing course, that the private sessions for groups and offering families. Located in Kendal in the Lake District this property offers beginners courses and individual sessions to build skills.

Peak District Climbing in the Peak District began with the pioneers in 1890 and has been expanded so that every weekend, thousands of climbers on the rock. The peak has a wide range of large and small rocks, and with over 10,000 registered increases - probably do not know exactly how much - and the proximity of some major urban areas means that it is a very popular place to climb.
The peak offers a wealth of climbing for all. Valkyrie - Froggatt Edge, north of Cima is a good place tiles and rocks Chew Valley may offer strenuous tiles instead of hard routes.

Wales Wales has a land far more interesting than the mostly flat UK. There are many places to go to centers. Hot spots are Snowdonia and North Pembroke.
Dinas Mot one of the best rock Llanberis (Snowdonia). On the south side, but rarely reaches the sun and is better for a hot summer day of sunshine waiting. There are different types of climbing with spurs, and the roads are long and multi-pitch. The hilly area is 300-500 meters high, with over 100 routes of all levels.
The most popular and best reef in North Pembroke, Carreg-y-Barcud. The rock here is compact sandstone slabs of large sizes in uniform, thin edges and small tears. General face of Carreg-y-Barcud is the largest flat area and a wide choice of routes from E1 upwards.
Other factors When one day climbing to organize a group, you must take into account other factors. Transportation to and from the center, accommodation for a stay of more than a day and food products. If the group is large enough, it might be easier for a mini-bus or coach hire. You must, however, given the size of the vehicle and check their sites you have in mind access to contribute. In basic terms that are the center of climbing on the housing site, or want to find a nearby hotel.

Climbing Techniques - Come Forward for Success

In mountaineering, as in every other area of human activity, you will only reach its full potential if they embrace the concept of failure. Sounds paradoxical, I know, but too many climbers in their comfort zone where you can not stay ... and not much better.
The climb was the old adage: "The leader never falls". And with terrible climbing protection, said that in a good way. Even today, in certain situations, you can still make good sense. There are X-rated rooms in the United States and exposed climb, where a fall would be fatal. No way to succeed in this little beauty, for sure!
But most of the climbing is on a large scale from 0 (most secure is not always) to 10 (terminal). If the limits of your study or your experience of climbing slide, then you can look at locations close to 0 on the serious scale. That is, if you deliberately try to do more serious way, in this case I recommend to be cautious - in fact, very careful.
But suppose you onsighted F6as 20 (5.10B) with success - is not on them. It is clear that the consolidated position (if your current experience). To state the obvious difficult, more difficult routes that you have to go climbing. But it is your choice whether you stay in your comfort zone or stop. Either way is fine as long as you want.
If your comfort zone, then three months later, he had climbed another 15 F6as, bringing the total number to 35 Or maybe you have to be done for five more - all successful - and I tried 10 different routes, which are much more. If you've done this, would your scorecard as follows: 25 F6A success. Four successful F6A + and a failure. F6bs three successful and two defeats. Now you can build a pyramid and press continue to use. Sure there are a few mistakes, but as long as the routes were relatively safe to fall, who cares? (Note: All routes are potentially dangerous. Make sure a competent court must warn you all the time. If you want a helmet, a bear.)
Can you see what's going on? Instead of not avoid like the plague, you accept it as a learning tool. As long as your "average" go up then it is relatively safe, which cares about the occasional failure?
Top climbers are not afraid of the (safe) failure. They know that the profit to remain at 100% of the time, in your comfort zone. The trick is not 'Next' to success. By the way, this tactic also works well in life! Make sure you can not, where the penalties are relatively mild. But the fear of failure (not the error itself) is the biggest thing stopping most people realize their full potential. There is an old movie called climbing, "Break on Through" and that is what we should all do. Break on Through to the other - not only in climbing but in life!
Michael (Mick) Ward has climbed since 1967. 56 years, is still around 5.12 or F7B +. He made many first ascents and mountaineering written for many magazines. He has to improve.

Rock Climbing Why not? Climbing

Why climb? Many consider climbing is very dangerous and will try to talk to you like this, if you plan to do them. Do not stop the thoughts of others should continue to rise. You are responsible for your safety and security of your climbing partners. To reduce the risk of injury, paralysis or death, climb safe and good decision at all times.
Yet, I would like to improve your career secure.
Remember that an increase Matters.
This article is intended for everyone, tell everyone. The novice or experienced climbers that certain something that you want to win will increase your ability to climb.
And do not forget that the goal is to get on and enjoy!
I hope that when they finish reading this article, you must:
Acquire a basic knowledge of climbing.
Why climb?
Personally, it is because there are many paths to climb, you'll never be bored of climbing. Some people enjoy the dynamic total body workout, while others, such as the Community at their local gym. For experienced climbers, are competitors who train all year to the victory. And then you can go just for pure relaxation.
Climbing is the ultimate challenge. Every day on the rocks is a Opportunities for you to your limits and go beyond the powers already difficult paths of study.
Most climbers are also looking for adventure and freedom. Outdoor climbing is an opportunity to combine your favorite outdoor activities. Like many climbing areas are located in remote areas, camping and hiking are often a necessary part of a climbing trip. Enjoy nature and wildlife from when Boulder Boulder is a great compliment for each hiking day. This feeling that you are free to choose where and when to go is great. The exceptional nature and the landscape at the summit, a breathtaking view that will not see many people are treated.
Among other things your children?
Climbing can build stronger ties with your children. Climbing with them at home or outdoor use. Soon it will certainly deserves "respect" them if what you can do to show! You can also try to host a birthday party at your climbing and watch your children the time of their lives.
Friendship
This is almost impossible not to meet new friends, as you climb. And this is one of the main reasons for me getting into. The type of climbing requires responsible involvement and help from other climbers. We always need a good spotter or insurer to climb safely. Moreover, there is always more fun when you're climbing partner to go by train or road.
Fitness
There are two schools of thought. One that, if people get up to get ready to impress with your body that will disappointed, Because it is much easier ways to work instead for a walk in the woods and rocks are dangerous.
The other school of thought is that climbing is easy to get and stay fit. dynamic muscle strength, flexibility, balance, coordination will be developed by varying the type, intensity and duration of the climb. And that is why having a strong, lean muscles with perseverance to develop.
to reach for me, climbing is balance and positioning of the body to a stable equilibrium.
creative movement and adapt quickly will be key to climbing. The experience and fitness, work hand in hand. And many women have a strong climbers climbing men humiliated.
Spiritual
Climbing challenges your reflexes and calm. Although the wall, the path is the mind is so moved that challenge harder.
At least once not to extend back to its original condition.
Any increase for a number of reasons.
There are no right or wrong philosophy of climbing. And no matter what the reason for learning to climb is very similar to learning a bicycle. You never forget the basic moves, but will need much practice to perfect them, if you register for the competition.

Basic Rock Climbing kit

Rock climbing is an adventurous and exciting sports. The challenges of the steep rock formations requires strength, endurance and mental control. It is also important to have a thorough knowledge of climbing on techniques and the use of Het climb the right equipment and facilities have is essential.
Belt, helmet and Belay Plate
It has two types of cables - fully adjustable, and partly set. During the first season all the tools, but even more climbing in the winter, the second usually has only in the summer. Harness Whatever your choice, make sure he spends a lot of robust materials that are well filled. Belt buckles with different types and different ways of linking to get the rope. Before purchasing the cable to stay out for ten minutes and check the level of comfort. The gear must fit properly, especially that the leg slips to loss in inappropriate places. The belt should be above the hips, tight enough to prevent slipping in them.
There are many different types of plate to break, but not all dishes suitable for all types of climbing. Check the security level for the purchase of one. ATCs are popular and easy to use, but a big crash on a wet rope 9mm. A VC (Variable Controller) is a good choice in the round and can be designed for high or low friction. A plate with a double-locking snap hooks and rope Sticht is a good craftsman.
The helmet is a must for climbers. To prevent head injuries from falling rocks or accidentally stumbling on the rocks. A view of the mountains, with a helmet with a top of the torch. Choose a helmet that can withstand the impact of safe breakage. The helmet should be one inch to one inch above the eyebrows. It should sit level on the head, and even with the chin strap undone, should not lead into everyday language.
Rock Boots
Boots of comfort, fit the gears are key to climbing. For bouldering, tight boots are good, but slightly loose fitted ones are best for long days on big mountain trails. Her tight boots climb well, but can also lead to the foot of the black and a little bit "before the fall. Even the boots fitted separately to the toes with just a little to destroy," but when you're uncomfortable with tight shoes, select the most flexible option. Except in very cold conditions Rock Boots are worn without socks. Having progressed to advanced climbing is also to new developments and best quality shoes. Anasazi are a few people recommended by many climbers.
Prussik (basic emergency kit)
If you are planning a multi-pitch climbing Prussik become a must. Get a clip to protect with three meters of cable in the store 4mm climbing and understanding how this equipment to climb with a rope, and fell pulley systems and open beer bottles. The fittings are HMS carabiner, chalk bag and a sling 120cm. They also need warm clothing, rain gear, a bag, compass, first aid, canteen, gloves, if they do not climb, a towel for rock boots, headlamp, sleeping bag cleanly.
Ropes
Paths only occasionally sports a 60m rope. Ropes come in a variety of styles and should be clearly labeled as to its use.
Dynamic internal use only designed to be, is great for a pitch and indoor use. Thickness varies from 9.5 mm to 11mm. More subtle were lighter and less safe but more expensive and sometimes have a lower score if the number drops significantly before bed.
Double Dynamic should be as part of a couple and well-used for multi-pitch climbing and zig-zag path around a lot. Width a bit about 9mm. You can also abseil twice the distance without running out of rope. Finally, I am sure, very rarely calculated, on a sharp edge, known to some ropes to break - but that's never happened to both of the strings in a few half.
Double Dynamic should be a part of the torque and well-used for multi-pitch climbing and zig-zag path around a lot. Width tends to about 9mm. Alternative, two double-rope from a distance without Running Out of rope. Finally, I am sure, many times when it is loaded on a sharp edge, are known to break ropes - but this has not happened for half the strings to some.
are static rappelling ropes and rigging alone.
Ropes for rappelling and rigging alone. The route is expected to depend on the type of rock up what you want, and what equipment is lost. If only climbing sports, all you need is 12 articles. For the rest, we recommend the following.
2 x 120 cm sling (the length which is twice around the chest Wraps - the length of the belt is cm, but the half of this cycle 240)
Set the size of the dice 10-10
8 references in various lengths
A few large rock Centrics
Four additional module notes and save it to rock Centrics
Screw two additional stops Gates
A mother with