Thursday, August 19, 2010

How to climb a rock - the different types of climbing

To learn about climbing, these are the most common types of climbing and styles.
Bouldering - Climbing routes out to be relatively safe without the use of ropes. Security components can be a path or something similar at the foot of the slope and / or someone on the ground to draw a climber near potentially hazardous areas.
Top-roping - a traversed on a path, a point on the rope, the climber is attached by insurers to anchor. 'S insurer is then responsible for the climber is not very far. This is considered the safest way of climbing, and is ideal for the novice.
Traditional climbing - a climber or mountaineer with all necessary protective equipment to increase, and remove them, since, when she completed the career progress, nothing is left behind. This form of climbing does not damage the natural rock and leave no trace of the climbers are missing, then the environment is the best form of climbing, though perhaps not the safest.
Climbing - Climbing on all safety equipment is permanently attached to the rocks along the span or path (s).
Scrambling - basically scrambling climber uses his hands and feet to reach a route. Scrambling is usually a solo free-style, however, be used to protect the rope and advanced courses "technically" normal runways.
Free climbing - a form of climbing where the climber can be used as a backup safety device to prevent accidents, but only used their power, balance and ability to effectively implement the rise. This is in contrast to aid climbing, where climbers come to the aid of the acceleration to the top.
For Climbing - The Heads of State and Government will increase from the start with his second rope of the climber restraint. It determines whether the intermediate points of security, as they use by the rise of progress. The second to catch the climber to climbers at any point, and whisk together well, as they go.
Aid climbing - as the route to support the climber at intervals or "support" of the climb. In this type of climbing gear and the cable can be used to help reach directly the climbers are a part of the climb.
free solo - the climber climbs alone, without the use of tools. This type of climbing is probably the hazardous and potentially lethal.
Rope alone - a form of climbing where the climber with the rope from one route to solve the potentially if they begin. This could happen if free climbing or aid climbing, or even a combination of both.
Only aid climbing - this kind of dish and climb usually takes at least some 'safety or protection, but no rope. The mountain climber is as much as possible to climb and use of security tools, the circumstances required. The climber may or may not use the gear "aid" in height.
Deep Water Solo - a form of solo climbing a path where the rock is a fairly deep waters in order to protect climbers from serious injury from falls.
Concurrent (simultaneous climb) - that is, where two climbers an opportunity to progress at the same scale. As lead climbing with the exception of the roles can be reversed at some point. A traditional form of climbing, usually a climbing and safety equipment as they go to collect elsewhere.

Are you a fan of climbing Abseiling or do you prefer?

Go on vacation anytime soon? Tired of climbing with the masses? Planning a trip climbing in the southern hemisphere, perhaps?
You really can not do an article on an abseiling because nine times out of ten is a good climb in the same area (obviously not true), so here are some interesting places in the South to do both. ..
South Africa
You are pampered in South Africa. There is a wealth of majestic mountains ideal for climbing adventures. How to rank up in South Africa? They use a simple numerical system:
7-12: Beginners climbs that someone in decent shape shold get up. Expect easy rock-friendly area with large handles. 12-16: small foundation and / or steeper rock, but still suitable for beginners and advanced climbers. 16-18: intermediate routes that require more power and experience. To 18: Intermediate to advanced. strong arms and good technique are a must ... The best cliffs in South Africa Rocklands for bouldering, Oudtshoorn, Montagu and Milner for sport routes and Table Mountain and Cederberg for trading routes. Of course there are many others, and I've only covered a handful here ...
The restaurant (after the Universe) can be found in the Waterval Boven reefs in the region of Mpumalanga Drakensberg Mountain Highlands - approximately 3 hours drive from Johannesburg and Pretoria. This region is one of the top climbing destinations in South Africa and was appreciated by many of the best climbers in the world. Most good climbing can be done about the difficulty of 17-27 with a chance to stand up to Grade 33! Some serious climbing then ...
The Oribi Gorge in KwaZulu-Natal was created over millions of years when the river carved its way Umzimkulwana on the Flat Rock, finding faults in the stone and eroding enormously deep and narrow gorges. At the foot of the cliffs, the rocks are one billion years, while the rocks are formed from sandstone deposited about 365 million years ago. Here you can abseil down a 110m mountain or climb one of the many challenging tracks on offer. Another interesting is reduced along the cascade of Howick in the Midlands of KwaZulu-Natal.
Blouberg Massif is a short walk from both Botswana and Zimbabwe. This is a quartzite mesa 1,200 m is the sun for most of the day, and is considered the toughest Big South Africa's Wall. There are 11 classic routes here, a level of 19. And there are some big names too. Some examples are: Wall of white light (a large wall scary), Psycho Reptiles, White Light, Future Shock, Crack of Adventure, Road to Nowhere, Hey Jude, boar, Tequila Sunrise, Moonshadow Teddy Bear's Picnic and Wow Fuck a name only a few ...
Milner Amphitheatre Western Cape is a double wall of orange rock at different levels in Hex River mountains. He sits beside a waterfall next to the 2000 ft. This is an area with excellent multi-pitch sport climbing and pitch, making it one of the best climbing in South Africa. There is access to this sensitive area so it is best to get in touch with a local club to check the rules and regs MCSA.
And of course there is Table Mountain. How can you talk about climbing in South Africa without taking the famous Table Mountain and the iconic in the discussion. Table Mountain climbing is a very popular pastime. There are well-documented climbing routes of varying difficulties to the many faces of the mountain. As the mountain is part of the Cape Floral Region World Heritage Site which can not be done by running here and only traditional climbing is allowed. business groups also offer abseiling from the top cable station. The cable car also offers a fast descent!
The Giant's Castle, Natal Drakensberg massif offers some technical ice climbing rather as a variant of the climb. These are the highest in southern Africa and spectacular mountain range. It also has the regions only consistently by ice and snow routes. Most documented routes are either pure water or pure snow-ice snow, but there are some streets that require mixed. Giants Castle itself is situated on the south side of the massif. Icing late May to late August. The best time is usually mid to late July. Several major climbs, these peaks and several others made first ascents to wait. Most of the unclimbed falls are steep, the multi-pitch routes, serious skill and determination to win will require.
Before leaving South Africa, I had this disturbing photo I've just met - give you an idea of some of the challenging climbs of the region to offer!
And finally for the Southern African region as a fan of you may have heard in the main railway Maletsunyane Waterfall Lesotho. This is a steep decrease of 204 million along the side of the waterfall in the gorge, but Wikipedia has a height of 192m. As you can imagine the view from the top is magnificent. It has the Guinness World Record for the highest commercially run fell over the world and attracts many international results. And climbing at its best and most exciting.
Australia
The Grampians in Melbourne is internationally renowned for its rock climbing and abseiling experiences and has become a popular destination for adventure. And home to hundreds of exciting climbs, especially on the rugged cliffs of Mount Stapylton, the north end of the park. Adventure halls offer a variety of climbing, including courses from the introductory lessons for beginners and programs related to advanced skills for the experience.
Climbers from across Australia and around the world test their skills on the rock of Mount Arapiles, a stunning peak just west of Horsham that some of the most dramatic and demanding rock formations in Australia. MT. Arapiles has other cool names: Buttress Bard 'Pilot error', lovely High Dive, Deranged, Life in the Fast Lane, No U.S. chicken, Anxiety Directly Slinkin 'Leopard ...
A combination of reliable weather and an extraordinary array of cliffs, reefs and pinnacles have made Mt Arapiles the most popular climbing and abseiling destination in Australia. The mountain is more than 2,000 designated climbs, ranging from simple slopes for beginners to level 30 climbs, the more extreme climbs. With so many climbs, it is difficult to give a short list of the best ever. But some songs stand out above the rest, Sunny Gully, Bullet Buttress, Tiptoe Ridge Route introductory, Exodus, Diapason, Marshmallow Sea, conifers and Parkas Crack In the name of ten.
New Zealand
Golden Bay is considered the best limestone climbing in the Pacific, near Abel Tasman National Park. Important also climb the famous Rock Paton Reserve and Payne's Ford. And one of the best concentrations of single pitch sport climbing in NZ (there are also some trails). The advantage of an incredibly beautiful landscape.
Like many other rocks in New Zealand, Paynes Ford was well and truly discovered. The rock offers steep, solid limestone, and includes some of the toughest climbs in the country. Simon and Middle Mass Climber magazine editor Mark Watson brought a book but relaxed definitive guide to the region. Almost from the opening of passage "For those of you that this had not yet we beter now warn you this is a very dangerous, a place where time stands still and hippies zijn plentiful, people naakt swimming is not accepted ' s life seriously. "It seems almost everyone a place to go climbing, is not it?!

Climbing 101

Climbing is often misunderstood or thought of those not in the loop. E ', considered the domain of dependence on adrenaline and macho tough guys. While the escalation of the use of force certainly echoed by almost everyone who wants to learn and spend their time on sports. Even if you live in an area with no big climbs, you can always learn to climb, just a little 'creative.
Start-up
More information about this sport is the first step to control the escalation, you can read sports magazines. This will be the type of equipment required and conditions that may occur to learn to climb.
Visit the forum dedicated to the sport will also help you learn from others, in collaboration with the sport. Do not be afraid to ask questions is a great way to find out how others got their start in this sport. You can also find climbers in your area who can get the resources that are valuable for a beginner to learn.
Climbing wall
A big problem for many people is a logistical effort to learn to climb. Your home may be far from a decent rock climbing. While many diehard fans of the sport will tell you that the best way to learn is natural rock, there's nothing wrong with starting in a gymnasium.
indoor sports facilities are rapidly gaining popularity and chances are you can find a location near you. If you win a knowledge and experience in a gym, you can climb through the natural rock climbing routes. You can be sure that once you have bitten by the bug of rock climbing, you are ready to travel for a good climb.
Dress for Success
It 'also important climbing clothing and gear necessary for safety and comfort when climbing. Wear the right clothes and rock climbing safety equipment is much better and climb on top of that, safety equipment save your life.
Not
There are many difficulty levels as you choose what you want to drive, the more you are involved in the sport you probably want to branch and trying different types of climbing. To begin, however, climbing and bouldering are an excellent introduction to the sport.
Free climbing, a kind of escalation that does not use equipment, is probably the best attempt right after you have more experience. However, if you've been climbing for some time, try climbing trad. This type of climbing using climbing equipment to help your progress.

Climbing Donner Pass history

Thunder and incredibly historic rock Pass is located about 90 miles north of Sacramento, Calif., just west of Thunder Lake and Truckee, California. Yes, the famous Donner Pass, the party were killed in the early days of the Old West.
Apart from the modern history of the famous in this area with spectacular granite dome as walls, cliffs, overhangs with thin and launch ramps multi-recording has it all! What is most impressive about this area is a popular sport and traditional climbing in harmony with one another. Not succumb to the destruction of over bumps, scratches, or garbage along the trails. The beginner can top rope climber, a leader can clip bolts or change the position of soloist and has ample places in Boulder.
Once you reach the top, you start to see some of the reefs to see. The first wall you come to the "Stealth and Black Wall" on your right. Later the road was the "off road" and "Peanut Gallery" Space Agency "Wall" on the hill above. Finally get to the meat of the summit and see the Snow Shed Wall "on the left. Below the bridge is clear that the" Green Phantom walls and Sun. Beyond the Bridge School "Rock", "Baboon Rock ", then" Or Curls "
Believe it or not, that's not all! If you park at school, "Rock" and walk on the path, is the "Star Walls (who love the hardest of all the ribs), after the walls to reach the star 19 and 20" Grouse Flat "and the amazing rock, overlooking the lake.
Descent: The walls are not the article. It's just a matter of finding the path of least resistance and beyond.
When all is said and done for the day climbing activities, you can go on the north shore of Donner Lake, and enjoy one of several pillars for public use. Enjoy the clear blue waters of the lake.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Tehipite trip (contd)

The Kings Canyon drains to the west and the valley has about 3000-4000ft of elevation change. The native americans used to winter at the bottom due to the warmer temperatures and good fishing.
From camp we had to hike to the wall and this is just a piece of the 1300ft top half of the wall. As far as I know, no one has climbed the dihedral in this photo.
Mike and Ari setting up our line to hang the food. We had two haul bags of food for our ten days of camping. One was filled with meals and the other with breakfast and snacks. We saw bear tracks and scat while on the trip but no bears and pretty much nothing but birds. The area was burned by fire two years ago and there is very little food for anything to eat. Plus the fire must have killed many of the animals. At the beginning of the trip it took all three of us to hang the food (because it was so heavy) and by the last day or two it could be done by just one.
Our first recon on the first day to get to the wall. You can see the upper part of the dome (Tehipite Dome) that is over 1000ft of rock you are looking at. Plus notice the burn damage and the grasses coming back into the environment very slowly. We needed to use surveying tape (bright orange) to mark our path from camp to the wall because it took over an hour to get there hiking in the mornings and at night. It was too easy to get lost (as we did once) with out marking the trail. In the end, we removed all the tape and found the path of least resistance. The hike wasn't too bad, it was the mosquitoes that were no fun and the 1000ft gulley that we had to descend and hike out everyday.
Me at the last major river crossing. I chose to wear that long sleeved hoody on the horse because the bugs were so bad on the ride in and out of the base camp.
Have a great day!
piz : )

Saturday, August 14, 2010

More Ten Sleep Climbing pics

This is turning into a photo blog. Oh well. You love it.

More pics from Ten Sleep for you. It's great having three people finally as we can spend time taking a few shots.


Gareth onsighting Number One Enemy 5.11a, a fingerlocky thing at Slavery Wall. Definitely one of the best sectors here. © L Cujes 2010


Me gathering beta. Sneaky! © S Cujes 2010


Another pic for the Molly Beard Appreciation Society © L Cujes 2010


Me onsighting a nice 5.11b, I Just Do Eyes. Techy long face. © G Llewellin 2010


Gareth on one of the best routes at Ten Sleep: Happiness Is Slavery 5.12b (or 7b or 25 :) © S Cujes 2010


Big G taking flight as the pump goes terminal 5m from the top © S Cujes 2010


Applying anti-pump techniques. Do you know this trick? © S Cujes 2010


Me on the start of the classic E.K.V 5.12c (7b+/26) which I flashed thanks to Molly & Carl's beta © S Cujes 2010


Me sending the classic long route Burden of Immortality 5.13a (7c+/28) © G Llewellin 2010

Well that's it for Ten Sleep. A nice couple of weeks was had by all.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Tehipite Dome Part 1

Mike B on his horse at the biggest creek crossing of the trip. Little did we know that our camp was just a few miles away. At this point of the ride, all of our butts were getting a bit sore and we were definitely ready to finish the ride. It was nice though to have a few minutes of walking around and stretching the legs by the crystal clear river.
Ari, taking it easy in the woods of tall trees and ferns on the forest floor. The outfitter (Clyde Pack Outfitter), put the littlest guy on our trip on the biggest horse. It was funny watching Ari trying to get on and off the horse during the ride in and ride out of Tehipite Dome. He wore is only blue jeans and a hand me down western shirt and a fisherman's hat the whole time!
This here is Allen Clyde and he knows these trails and his horses really well. He has been a horse packer in these mountains for over 30 years, he is a doctor of the feet, has a ranch near Fresno and is the man that you want to take you into the wilderness for any of your needs!
When we got to camp the evening before the ride into Tehipite Dome we had to explode the truck to repack all the gear in the horse pack bags. So we had to make sure that we had everything, ropes, harnesses, shoes, cams, nuts, toilet paper, stoves and cook sets, food, tents, backpacks, the whole works. It took over three hours to figure everything out and get the 6 pack bags equally loaded and all strapped down. As we did this the Pack station dogs joined us and sniffed our gear and we had a nice campfire going to keep away the bugs. It is always tough to pack the final amount of gear for a trip like this because you never really know what you need and it is always too late when you find out! We quickly realized that we forgot the bug spray!
Mike B and Ari just outside the Fresno airport where they picked me up. I was flying in from Canada and the Squamish Mountain Festival and they drove in from Colorado and Utah in my truck. Ari was wearing my warm weather gear to keep the 100 degree heat at bay while we walked to the truck. Notice the wind block hat and the woolen Arcteryx neck gaiter. I don't think that there is an outfit that Ari doesn't look good in.

piz : )